Surf season was on the way; I anticipated it with eagerness. Surf season was my best season: it was hitting the crest of the wave perfectly, or getting into the green room; surfing was everything exciting; it was a whole different world; but most of all, surfing meant fun.
Surf season was on the way; I anticipated it with eagerness. Surf season was my best season: it was hitting the crest of the wave perfectly, or getting into the green room; surfing was everything exciting; it was a whole different world; but most of all, surfing meant fun.
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